Gramercy CellarsViognierThe 2019 Viognier reminded me of my first trip to the Rhône Valley. I've explained this story before, but I somehow managed to secure an appointment at Rostaing, my absolute model for Syrah anywhere. As Rene Rostaing led us through the tasting of his incredible Syrahs, not that I heard anything he actually said as I was completely starstruck, he completed the tasting with the estate's most recent Condrieu - La Bonette. This is a true unicorn wine - impossible to source. I've only had it a few times.
But for me, it's the epitome of Viognier, falling somewhere between the aromatics of a great dry Riesling (no petrol) and the complexities of a restrained white Burgundy. Now, we aren't making anything close to that; our vineyard will
need another 50 years or so of maturity. But as I sniffed the wine, memories of that tasting popped into my head.
The 2019 Viognier is a step up - fresh with fruit, but a bit more deliberate - it shows its place with mineral and stone. There are exotic spice and floral components that I only find in serious Viognier. It is still perfect for the beach or boat, but it may be more suited to the Cote d'Azur or a 100 ft yacht to be fully appreciated.
Tasting Notes: Meyer lemon, honeydew, cantaloupe, peach, cream, some green herb - tarragon, wet rock, saline, mineral. Medium acid, showing some baby fat richness. A slight bitterness, consistent with great examples of the variety. More tree fruit on the palate - bosc pear, yellow apple. Richer, riper than 2018. Leans more towards white burg than Viognier right now. Full finish.