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Gramercy Cellars

15 Wines from 10 Grape Varieties

Gramercy Cellars Viognier Bottle Preview
Gramercy CellarsViognier

The 2019 Viognier reminded me of my first trip to the Rhône Valley. I've explained this story before, but I somehow managed to secure an appointment at Rostaing, my absolute model for Syrah anywhere. As Rene Rostaing led us through the tasting of his incredible Syrahs, not that I heard anything he actually said as I was completely starstruck, he completed the tasting with the estate's most recent Condrieu - La Bonette. This is a true unicorn wine - impossible to source. I've only had it a few times. But for me, it's the epitome of Viognier, falling somewhere between the aromatics of a great dry Riesling (no petrol) and the complexities of a restrained white Burgundy. Now, we aren't making anything close to that; our vineyard will need another 50 years or so of maturity. But as I sniffed the wine, memories of that tasting popped into my head. The 2019 Viognier is a step up - fresh with fruit, but a bit more deliberate - it shows its place with mineral and stone. There are exotic spice and floral components that I only find in serious Viognier. It is still perfect for the beach or boat, but it may be more suited to the Cote d'Azur or a 100 ft yacht to be fully appreciated. Tasting Notes: Meyer lemon, honeydew, cantaloupe, peach, cream, some green herb - tarragon, wet rock, saline, mineral. Medium acid, showing some baby fat richness. A slight bitterness, consistent with great examples of the variety. More tree fruit on the palate - bosc pear, yellow apple. Richer, riper than 2018. Leans more towards white burg than Viognier right now. Full finish.