entirety sourced from the 1998 En Cerise plantings; and assembled around nine months after fermentation – gives a mouthwatering impression of being suffused with savory, carnal, fatty pan drippings. If this libation doesn’t qualify as high umami, I don’t know what would! With that come ripe, succulent, subtly tart-edged cassis and blueberry; bittersweet floral perfume; as well as rich yet piquant toasty walnut and hickory, all of which ally on a polished, soothing palate, leading to a long, vibrantly dynamic and – as already adumbrated – salivary gland-milking finish. This should prove a terrifically memorable table companion over the coming decade if not also beyond. - David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate